37. Datca
Lazy day. Or…lazy dog day!!? Question……there are a heap of street dogs here…and elsewhere in Turkey. Not under-fed. Not unhappy……but where do they shit? In UK, NZ, Collioure…let dogs go…and…
36. Gumusluk to Datca
We were up bright and early…to get to the ferry terminal an hour before our 9am ferry. And at that time of day….on a Sunday…and election day to boot…the roads…
35. Gulluck to Gumusluk
A lazy start to the day…for it was only a short hop to Gumusluk..at the end of the Bodrum peninsular. Good job really….for the Turks are late risers…and usually breakfast…
34. Soke to Gulluck
Martin slept. I slept a bit! The hotel saga got better! We had opted for an early-ish start…to get the hell out of this immemorable place (actually very memorable!). So…
33. Sigacik to Soke
(…..a double-ton day when Strava stopped working….12km short!!) A breakfast-less start to the day! I was worried…for Martin is not one to move on an empty stomach! But the nearby…
32. Foca to Sigacik
Foca was a place I could have stayed a while. Such a great house (AirBnB…however much I hate how they operate!)…in a wonderful location. But we made an early start….with…
31. Foca
A lazy day in lovely Foca! This is certainly the sort of place I could come and have a great holiday for a week or two. Away from the awful…
30. Dikili to Foca
Only 79kms today…..wrong by 10% once again! Not the nicest riding today really. A fast road for the first 23kms after which we had no choice but to join ‘the…
29. Akcay to Dikili
An even better breakfast today! A full buffet spread….everything you might wish for..for breakfast…and a heap of things you might not ever have thought you might wish for…for breakfast! But…
28. Gronen to Aycik
What a day! A BIG day…and only Martin’s second! But it was a really special ride! After our first “proper” Turkish breakfast! …through countryside which I would never have picked…
27. Istanbul to Gonen – INTERCONTINENTAL
Funny (weird) day today. Iain left. And then it was Martin and I setting off…apparently on the ‘back to Collioure’ bit! Actually…I am really only a third of the way…
25/26 Istanbul
Phew…….!! Funny to think that despite the cold…and despite all the raindrops…and threatening clouds….we have not once (yet!) had to put on our waterproofs whilst riding! It was very wet…
24. Marmara Ereglisi to ISTANBUL
We made it!!! And rode straight to Sultanahmet Square….where the famous Blue Mosque (above) faces the much older Hagia Sophia (below). We had planned to do this trip over two…
23. Murefte to Marmara Ereglisi
A day of two halves today. Firstly a glorious 50km ride through to Tekirdag….. ….along the coast… ….and then a battery-sappingly steep climb up into hills Glorious scenery….and an almost…
22. ELECTION DAY in Murefte
And nothing happened! Indeed Murefte was all but closed. All but dead…..except of course for the wind….which blew - very coldly - for most of the day! Middle of May…in…
21. Ipsala to Murefte
Turkey is famous for its wonderful breakfasts, so I had been looking forward to our first delight! Well…I had been, until we arrived in our hotel….and feared that as the…
20. Makri to Ipsala (Turkey)
We had originally planned to spend two nights at our Greek idyll on the coast…..to warm up….relax on the beach etc….until we got there. So we decided to move our rest…
19. Kurdzhali to Makri (Greece)
Another freezing start. And we were quite glad to have a long slow gradient to keep the blood flowing!! As we approached the Greek border…the road steepened - of course!…
18. Plovdiv to Kurdzhali
A relatively slow start this morning….doubtless reluctant to brave the cold! We had decided over beers last night…that the chill was simply too much! So we decided to select our…
17. Plovdiv
It is all in the name…..so it is said. And Plovdiv somehow fitted its bill rather well. Say it very slowly…….Plooovdiiiv. It brought to mind a Miranda-esque “plunge” (you need…
16. Samokova to Plovdiv
It was a rough and early start this morning. Well, the same aim for 7…but leave at 7.30 sort of start….except of course we had lost our hour yesterday…so it…
15. Monastery at Kriva Palanka to Samokova (Bulgaria)
A hurtle down the 25% hill…even for only two kms…certainly blew away a few seedy cobwebs, after our fantastic night at our monastery hotel. What a place! Truly world class…so…
14. Skopje to Kriva Palanka (& some!)
We made a good early start today in brilliant sunshine! Cold….but we have not had many clear skies as yet, so felt good! And - despite the lack of any…
13. Prizren to Skopje (North Macedonia)
Another big up and down day today! And despite the wee graphic above….it started all down. At about two o’clock in the morning…..and again at 3.30…..and again…..as my delicious Mexican…
11/12 Prizren (Kosovo)
A day of rest!! We needed it! Indeed…I cultivated a cold…so - with lots of rain forecast - we opted to stop an extra day. Very little to report really….lots…
10. Shënmeri to Prizren (Kosovo)
Not much sleep last night. Was that a bed bug…? Or a flea? And the pillows smelled rank. “You’re getting soft in your old age” chirped Iain. Too bloody right…!!…
9. Rreshen to Shënmeri
What a day!! A real monster! Indeed various Google searches had confirmed that this was always going to be huge….but when we asked our host last night…he advised (correctly) an…
8. Adriatic Sea to Durres (Albania) to Rreshen
Most of the folk on the boat were big fat truck drivers! I know….Roald Dahl is no longer able to use that term…but it is true! Try navigating around the…
7. Corinaldo to Ancona…to Adriatic Sea
I forgot to mention…at the bar last night, they were playing some cool music. Not that I could name any of it. But suddenly Iain burst into song…getting every word…
6. Corinaldo
A lazy morning after Roby had supplied us with a huge breakfast…and Mrs Roby kindly took our washing…..Before I wandered into town to explore. Apparently Corinaldo was voted the prettiest…
5. Gubbio to Corinaldo
A late start today, as we awaited delivery of our included breakfast! So for the first time this trip, we left with full tummies. Another instant climb out of the…
4. Arezzo to Gubbio
A very steep hill took us out of Arezzo….breakfast-less…and freezing cold (but sunny!). So our sore digits were pleased to stop for breakfast in the sun. A delightful cafe, packed…
3. Fiano to Arezzo
As we were having our first coffee of the day…Iain was approached by an old woman who gave him a bunch of greenery she had collected. “For a beautiful boy”…or…
2. Lucca to Fiano (in the hills near Firenze)
Slightly later than planned, we ventured out from our fantastic city centre apartment (only one floor up to lug the bikes) for our first real day of cycling. And it…
1. Ventimiglia to Lucca
Well…we did cycle nearly 30kms…so I felt it counted as our first day! A later start today….so after crashing down the six flights of stairs from the apartment we had…
Day Zero: Collioure to Ventimiglia
And we’re off!! Father and son for four weeks of delightful bonding, arguing, laughing…and biking….all the way to Istanbul. We stopped for a quick farewell-to-Collioure on the way to the…
Prologue
The fourth Mad Bike Ride!! Back in 2018, Collioure to London seemed impossibly far to me! On a bicycle. So…I gave it a go…..and it was a revelation! Simply…
66. Girona to Collioure
8 July 2022 The final day!! Yesterday was my third wi-wi day of the trip. A “Will I, won’t I” day! Coincidentally on the very same day that Boris finally…
65. Barcelona to Girona
7 July 2022 The penultimate day of the journey!!! And a fair distance to cover…so we planned for and were ready for a fairly early start but then we were…
64 Civitavecchia to Barcelona
6 July 2022 Today was a long day….with a full 12 hours since wake-up time until our arrival in Barcelona….on our miserable ferry. The cabin is ok..but the rest of…
63. Orvieto to Civitavecchia
5 July 2022 A slower start than planned. Feeling a bit dusty after a little too much rehydration! And after a quick plummet down from Orvieto…..we were immediately in to…
62. Spello to Orvieto
4 July 2022 Today…we knocked the bastard off…as Ed might have said!! And enjoyed a bastard breakfast in a bastard bakery!! What a classic name, and with exactly the same…
61. San Severino Marche to Spello
3 July 2022 We both had a fairly awful sleep. The very fabric of the building was so hot, it felt like sleeping in an oven…which a fan really did…
60. Ancona to San Severino Marche
2 July 2022 The ferry cabin was surprisingly comfortable…and despite the heat (& probable snoring)…we both had a fairly good sleep. So a relaxed lazy morning. Cheese pie for breakfast…
59. Arkoudi to Patras
1 July 2022 Today was all about catching our ferry to Italy. So we made a good early start to cover the 78kms……to avoid that niggling anxiety about missing it!…
58. Arkoudi
30 June 2022 Rest day today. The last one of the trip….alas! (…apart from two long ferry rides to come!) Arkoudi is a small place….so little to do but….long slow…
57. Kalo Nero to Arkoudi (via Olympia)
29 June 2022 Having stopped as soon as we reached the coast yesterday…we knew we had another big day today…with a planned three-hour stop at Olympia to be real tourists…
56. Sparti to Kalo Nero
28 June 2022 We had hoped to get to Olympia today…but Mr Google was up to his usual tricks!! It was always going to be a big day….but…..! We were…
55. Elafonisos to Sparti
27 June 2022 Firstly…farewell to Elafonisos…a good place to stop (….better for longer…but we have places to go!) Saw turtles just before the sun set! Up in good time to…
54. Elafonisos
26 June 2022 A well-earned rest day today…on Elafonisos…the most distant point on the journey! It is known mostly for its lovely beaches….rated as amongst the best in Greece! So…
53. Monemvasia to Elafonisos
25 June 2022 Thankfully we had planned only a short day today. So we spent the morning walking to and wandering around the old Monemvasia (bikes prohibited!). An awesome wee defensive…
52. Leonidion to Momenvasio
24 June 2022 Today was originally down as an 82km ride with 1,200m of climbing. And then I found a website describing the most spectacular bike ride in Greece….which would…
51. Napflion to Leonidion
23 June 2022 Not as early a start as we would have liked…but after a late arrival yesterday…not surprising really. The first 20km around the North end of the Argolic…
50. Agistri to Napflion
22 June 2022 Back in the saddle….or should today be described as the hot seat!! But more on that in a bit!! First…a quick summary of Agistri….or a lesson as…
49. Athens to Agistri
14 June 2022 A very lazy start to the day (nothing to do with Liz having arrived!!)…as were not catching the ferry until 11.30…for a week of R&R on the…
48 Artemis to Athens
13 June 2022 We made it!! Only a short ride into Athens this morning…taking small roads to avoid the traffic…but there is a big hill in the way coming from…
47. Chalkida to Artemis
12 June 2022 It was supposed to be a relaxed 79km day…but turned into a marathon, especially after yesterday! Really as a result of detouring to avoid the busy roads….but…
46. Glyfa to Chalkida
11 June 2022 Huge thunderstorms yesterday afternoon and lots of rain last night…..so it was with some relief we woke to bluish skies. 100m down the road…and we were on the…
45. Glyfa
10 June 2022 Delightfully slow day today. There is little to do…except….eat, drink…and The water is simply divine!! But I did catch up on Bookings for the balance trip to…
44. Farsala to Glyfa
9 June 2022 A bit of a dusty start to the day…but we were not sorry to be leaving Farsala behind! And an hour or so on the bike…the dustiness…
43. Meteora to Farsala
8 June 2022 After a long time in the hills, the landscape suddenly changed today. To dead flat. And flat seems harder! You have to pedal all day…with no relief…
42. Meteora
A rest day today…after a fairly tough five days…for Iain in particular! His legs - & bum - have been suffering! But we are in Meteora….an extraordinary landscape…with extraordinary monasteries…
41. Kastoria to Meteora
6 June 2022 We both had had a bad night. Sweating like piglets…draped in wet towels….to try and cool down just a little. And we left later than planned…so we…
40. Bitola to Kastoria (Greece)
5 June 2022 Big day today….in that we were moving to Greece…the destination country in a sense!! A quick stop to get rid of our balance Macedonian Dinars (vapes and…
39 Trpejca to Bitola
4 June 2022 Today started with a hard push up from our wee apartment down at the lake! And then a long long climb directly from Trpejca up to an…
38. Librazhd to Trpejca (North Macedonia)
3 June 2022 An early…but breakfast-less start…so we had early stop for coffee….and a packet of chips between us (alas!!)…which carried us through the day’s ride!! Lovely scenery today as…
37 Tirana to Librazhd
I first need to correct a bit in yesterday’s post. I actually wrote (before the event, to get fully up to fate…!) “So otherwise…a bit of reading…..and a very chilled…
36. Tirana
1 June 2022 A rest day!! The usual domestic chores…..and we then set off to find our battery man once again!! This is his shop: …..and as agreed, he then…
35. Kruje to Tirana
31 May 2022 A relatively leisurely day today…for Tirana is only 40kms away. So we enjoyed a slow breakfast at our wonderful guest house. And it is only here in…
34. Shkoder to Kruje
30 May 2022 Our young host was so enthusiastic about our bikes (we have seen no e-bikes here in Albania)..that he went off for a ride first thing on Iain’s…
33. Buljarica Beach to Shkoder (Albania)
29 May 2022 Bacon for breakfast(!)….& we were off for another relatively leisurely day. We clung to the coast (& the main road)…for the first 20 kms or so… ….and…
32. Perast to Buljarica Beach
28 May 2022 A weird start to the day as it was time farewell to Martin! But he helped Iain get the bike set up…and passing on the system of…
31. Perast
27 May 2022 A much-needed rest day today…in pretty Perast! After four huge days….and very little sleep. Simply too hot….and a pillow like a rock! Catching up on blog, washing,…
30. Trebinje to Perast (Montenegro)
26 May 2022 Another big climbing day…so another early start… Today…it has turned out is Martin’s last cycling day…and it was certainly the most dramatic and exciting of the trip…
29. Mostar to Trebinje
25 May 2022 With the heat…and a big day planned…..we were on the road before 6.30…to catch a few hours of coolness. It was with a little trepidation we started…
28. Drvenik to Mostar (Bosnia i Herzegovina)
24 May 2022 A lovely meander along the coast first thing…when we found a bike path which sat right on the sea for around 15km. Looks about right…..!! Before we…
27. Hvar to Drvenik
23 May 2022 This is our last full day in Croatia!! (..that is the border in the top right corner…only 40km riding away!) A bit sad really…for almost all of it…
26. Hvar
22 May 2022 A rest day today!! My calf has been playing up again over the past few days…and last night I properly tweaked it……on the steps up to the…
25. Split to Hvar
21 May 2022 But a ferry ride away!! But we could not find a ferry to Hvar town which carries bikes (all direct ferries are fast catamarans which don’t!). Maybe…
24. Skradin (Krka National Park) to Split
20 May 2022 Today was supposed to be a relatively short ride….through the National Park and then 70km or so to Split! But we were not allowed to cycle ‘through’…
23. Pag to Skradin (Krka National Park)
19 May 2022 Another big day today!! And good distance made on the map…as we headed almost due South. We got up early…6.30 breakfast….for we knew it was going to…
22. Krk to Rab to Pag (to Mars!)
18 May 2022 Three kilometers…my arse!! That was twenty three kms of the wildest windiest conditions…made worse by precipitous drop-offs. We came across a few cyclists who had (probably sensibly)…
21. Cres to Krk
17 May 2022 Shower curtains (at least on more than one side of the shower) should be banned!! Felt like being wrapped up in a condom as I acted as…
20. Rovinj to Cres
16 May 2022 Big day today. For Martin…poor guy had to wait over an hour to clear passport control at Stansted …and arrived in Ottley at 1.30 in the morning!…
19. Piran (Slovenia) to Rovinj (Croatia)
15 May 2022 It was a weird start to the day….as Martin and I are heading off in different directions today (more on that below!)…so I felt a bit nervous…
18. Piran
The straight line distance from the Italy border crossing to the Croatia border crossing…is only around 20km…so Slovenia certainly missed out when the coastline was divided up. Interesting that Trieste…
17. Ronchi dei Legionari (Trieste Airport) to Piran (Slovenia)
13 May 2022 Cake for breakfast!! (..as well as Croissant and a large bowl of fruit)…but we really could not manage the cake!! The team were up early…making their gelato…
16. Caorle to Ronchi dei Legionari (Trieste Airport really!)
12 May 2022 It was with little regret that we were obliged to leave the coast from Caorle…to avoid another string of hotels…which extended East as far as one could…
15. Venice to Caorle
11 May 2022 What a day!! By far the shortest day of the trip was planned today!! So a slow star seemed just fine……which got even slower when we arrived…
14. Venice
10 May 2022 A rest day today…really to allow Martin to enjoy his first visit to Venice….prior known as “la serenissima”…and it possibly is! Provided of course you are not…
13. Este to Venice (Lido)
9 May 2022 Turned out to be a big day….sunny and hot all day!! So we started the day with Martin feeding my water with Electrolyte. Actually I think it…