56. Kardamyli to Pyrgos

We had planned a big one today. But certainly not this big!! A record-breaker…in terms of kms in a day!! And a few metres of climbing to boot!

We had opted for an early breakfast-less start. Nae is not a big breakfast eater…. But gets hungry quickly! Today…she had to be patient for the plan was to stop in Kalamata…about 40kms down the road!

Well…up the road would be more appropriate description….with a climb to 550m first thing!

A lovely ride…..

….and a gorge to cross….

…before pulling in for an olive-less breakfast on Kalamata’s long beachside esplanade. Actually pastries….sausage roll things, cheese pies and a bacon and cheese thing! We were hungry!!

It was fairly miserable ride out of the city….on the main highway. Not busy..and plenty of room…but a bit of a downer after Mani!

And before we knew it….we were heading West on the same road we took last year…from Sparta….heading over to the West coast. Had to laugh at our coffee stop en route: a garage forecourt, with tables set up…with ashtrays…right next to the petrol pumps!! You do not hear of many Greek petrol stations exploding!

I generally ride to a fairly strict rhythm….20kms, stop (water…and maybe a smoke!), 20kms, coffee stop, 20kms, stop (water…and maybe a smoke! maybe? Read always!), 20kms, lunch stop! And we had agreed in Kalamata to re-set the day….and try to get through to Pyrgos…..over 110kms away! The reason being…the last ferry tomorrow leaves at 12.15…..& if we did not get that, we would need to stay in Kyllini, rather than at our island destination…and even Pyrgos was still three hours short!

And of course we needed to recharge batteries…so everything worked well for a (very late!) lunch stop at the 80km (actually 120km) mark! Cafe…on the roadside…and on the beach (& there are surprisingly few on this stretch of coastline)…for a long stop, much-needed lunch and a swim!

My second battery had just 1km left as we pulled in!

And it was closed! Alas!! No lunch! 

But thankfully the guys were there preparing for their re-opening next week. (It really is such a short ‘season’ here!). So we could recharge the batteries…..if not the stomachs! I had a few leftover crisps…..AND a largely untouched packet of TWIGLETS…which Nae had  brought over! 

So we did not die of starvation…..and the beach (& swim) was great. Wild and largely deserted.

30kms on to Pyrgos…..and a very quaint 60’s hotel (with the sort of manager who insists on giving you a receipt in an envelope). But what great value…and ‘breakfast included’. The bathroom was a bit dated (understatement!)…but it was a bit of a classic!

We were both buggared! Nae a bit wobbly. Periodically-speaking (…not the best day for a record-breaker!)…so it was not long before we were in town, enjoying beers and banter (& gyros!). Funny…her own Strava had 1.5km less recorded…so she clearly cycled less!! Actually…I had to backtrack…..to ‘rescue’ Nae after her back tyre softened. (..”rescue”?…I carry the pump!). Same bloody tyre. Frustrating! For if there was a hole…you’d see it! New wheel. New tape. New everything…yet still..!! 

Pyrgos is not a tourist town. At all!! But…Sunday night…it was busy! With our ‘El Greco’ place..packed with families, and kids playing in the square. Reminded me a bit of Albania…where everyone comes out in the evening…whatever the day.

Too many beers. Again! But well deserved today! That glow of satisfaction that we’d made it..breaking the 150km barrier!