2. Lucca to Fiano (in the hills near Firenze)

Slightly later than planned, we ventured out from our fantastic city centre apartment (only one floor up to lug the bikes) for our first real day of cycling. And it was raining! Not heavily…but quite wettingly…so before we got fully saturated we took cover in a petrol station. Thankfully! For then the heavens opened. 

So it was a damp start on wet roads. But the clouds cleared and spirits lifted as we searched for coffee and breakfast! The latter we found..but it took us 15kms or so find coffee!! So by the time we were really feeling ready to go, we were running a bit late.

The roads got busier. Mis-mothered by Google, and mis-directed by me. It was not a great start! 

Until we veered on to the almost mythical Via Francigena, the north-south cycle route Alan and I had tried to follow four years ago. There one minute. And gone the next. Beautiful signs one minute…none the next. 

Our first foray laster no more than 100 metres before the new cycleway just stopped!!

But we did find another version…and it took us up into the gorgeous Tuscan hills. So flat busy roads were transformed into quite challenging deserted hilly ones! Perfect!

San Gimignano appeared in the far distance, as we climbed up to our night-time stop at Fiano, a small village atop a hill.

Another lovely apartment…but it was not ready…so they bribed us with a bottle of Chianti in the garden…to while away an hour. now…a headache-in-a-bottle is really not what you want after a full day of cycling…but it was a nice touch! And the view from the apartment was great!

Thence to the village bar. Pool and table-football and cheap beer. Perfect! But no food! And Google assured us that the one restaurant in Fiano (yes, Pizza!) would not be open for three days. So we worried about having to cycle more hills to find sustenance!

But thankfully…Google had mis-mothered not just us…but also the restaurant. For at 7pm…the five white-uniformed staff arrived for work. It was a lovely place…if slightly weird. No signage whatsoever. Just a house really, with two front rooms packed with tables. We wandered in at around 7.30 to find just one of those many tables occupied. Sit anywhere? No, no…only this table! All others booked!! 

There were five uniformed, chef-hatted staff behind the counter. And we wondered why really…as we placed our order. Fast service indeed…but five!? But by 8.30 it was rammmed, chock-a-bloc. Noisy and great! Everyone knew everyone else. It was like a family party!

The “gigante” pizzas (for the grand price of three euros) turned out to be small! (We never discovered how small the medium size were!)….so we had to go a second round!

But it was a lovely place. so friendly…and a great end to our first real day! And then I enjoyed Iain’s commentary on the cricket on the walk home, as NZ made a spectacular recovery to edge past Pakistan in their T20 game, to square the series. Internet reception was hopeless here..so we probably learned the result half an hour late! But..it really did not matter.

I did later reflect on the Google misinformation about the single local restaurant being closed from Sunday to Wednesday! Probably based on an absurd Californian algorithm which says if lots of alive mobile phones are not there…it must be closed! So Sunday to Wednesday it is mobbed instead by the locals, who choose to talk to each other…instead of to their phones…whereas at the weekend, visitors from the smoke arrive…phones in hand to satisfy Google that the place is actually open! Just a theory of course…but potentially quite damaging for a small local business!

3 Comments

  1. Liz

    Oooh a bit of envy creeping in now!!

  2. Anna

    Ohhhhhh Italian pizza! Cheap beer!

  3. Shennae

    You very nearly passed through my temporary Italian home of Empoli! Probably a good thing you didn’t…

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