52. Peshkopi (Albania) to Gjakova (Kosovo)

Before I start on today’s journey….a few photos from Peshkopi last night. The Albanian Giro!! 

It happens everywhere in the country…between around 6 and 9 in the evening. Everyone goes walk about! 

Remember that big avenue from yesterday….big and empty:

But in the evening it comes to life….with seemingly the whole town out for a walk! This evening stroll happen in lots of countries…but I do think Albania takes the prize…for its inclusivity. Busy, busy, busy…for hours!! Apparently-dead towns come to life….every night….everywhere! Good to see!

So…to today!

We knew the distance…..and the anticipated ascent proved remarkably accurate today:

But what we had not expected was that almost all of the first 70kms or so…through to Kukes (pronounced Cooks!)….was off road!!

Fantastic ride…but it does require significantly extra effort (from battery and body) to get through.

I will let the photos tell tue story…

….as we climbed up and through really deserted territory!

Half way through….actually all the time really….I did get a bit anxious. No traffic at all. No people. No SIM cards (only in Albania for a day!). Difficult terrain. Precipitous drop-offs etc. so what happens if someone gets hurt…or the bike breaks something! Not worth thinking about really! But..one does!! 

Anyway…we made it through….not sure John would have made it across this bridge!! Hahaha!

And it was good to find a bit of tarmac…as we headed down to Kukes! 

It had been an adventurous ride! A bit funny in fact…for Iain and I passed through Kukes two years ago….and we too had had an adventure getting through (completely different route…running out of gas 30kms shy of Kukes!).

73kms in…..so we had breakfast here!!! Hungry bunnies we were!

As we prepared for the long climb up to the Kosovo border.

Mountains everywhere! Just beautiful!

We treated ourselves to coffee on the way…at a petrol station. Walked in…and the place was full of around 30 folk all lounging around smoking…hookah pipes! Really very bizarre!! In the middle of nowhere really. This was our view!

Close to the border now…

This is my third meander across Albania this ride! And I have not yet mentioned the cars!!! One of the poorest countries in Europe…yet jammed packed full of some of the most expensive cars around. almost all Mercedes…but plenty of Audis, Range Rovers, Porsches etc etc! Most of them stolen in Germany and elsewhere and then traded on the blackmarket. There really is no other explanation. Albanians like to say that this practice has been dying out as the country develops proper regulations following the carless closure of Albania from 1944 until 1991 (when there was apparently just 600 cars in the country exclusively for party cadres). But it is not credible…that Albanians who struggle to make any money at all …can afford all these extraordinarily expensive vehicles!

This trip included…I have now cycled through Albania five times…using 8 of its border crossings. And I have always wondered where the weak link is…in terms getting these vehicles into the country!

And…I think we found it today!!

Firstly….. as we were about 2kms shy of the border…we come across three teenagers (?) doing skids with brand new Mercedis/Audis! Celebrating perhaps?

….and guess what we found 50m AT the border:

Two flash Mercedes…with UK plates! Hahaha

And…perhaps the real kicker….the Albanian border post was completely unmanned!!! For anyone arriving…or leaving!! Amazing! So not too hard to ‘smuggle’ in a heap of stolen vehicles!! 

And…so to Kosovo…..

We were well knackered! But we were staying in some simply delightful rooms….above a BBQ restaurant!! 

So we went nowhere!! Had far too many rehydrating beers! And far too much fantastic food….all for 27 euros!! (…& yes, oddly….Kosovo uses the Euro…albeit they are not part of the Euro-Zone per se! Not sure how that works…but it does!)

Great day!!