58. Sarajevo to Travnik

The day started focussed around Andrew’s bike. We had learned yesterday…that the ‘noise’ from the rear wheel was a serious issue!…but that they had no time/ability to fix it!

So we had found another bike shop…and Andrew was waiting outside the door for their 9am opening.

Two issues: fully worn bike pads….and failing bearings in the rear axle. The first was an easy fix….and having phoned around all the other bike shops the fix for the bearings was not possible! Simply, the sealed unit replacement bearings were not available in Sarajevo! Alas! Our next ‘city’ stop was planned to be in Ljubljiana…6-700kms away (by our planned route!). Anyway…we had no choice other than to push on…hoping for the best! Fingers crossed.

The good news…..the noise had gone. That had been the brakes! It felt good…even if there was a bit of a wobble on the back wheel. So on we went…..

With all the bike dramas….we did not get onto the road until after 11….with no forward bookings!

I had been a bit worried about the exit from Sarajevo. Whilst the arrival had been fantastic: coming from the North the narrow gorge opens out and you are immediately in the middle of the old town. Moving on South, the city extends for 12-15kms! So lots of traffic to contend with etc.

But no…for most of that time….we were on a cycle path! Have not ridden on one of those for a long while!

And then into the ‘countryside’….

….except it wasn’t really. But rather a hugely long “corridor of industry”. So much commerce! 50-60km of industry!

And with that…lots of vehicles…too many trucks…..too narrow a road. Certainly the busiest road of the whole trip. Traffic jams even…

Not a pleasant ride at all. Overall….yup…the worst day of riding…for really there was no relief at all.

So it was with some relief that we pulled into the town of Travnik. 

What a gem! Capial city of Bosnia from 1699 to 1850, with a cultural heritage dating from that period.

We were staying up near its famous spring! A real gusher…pouring out of a hole on the ground!

Just beautiful!

….with a nice wee chiller on the side…….

Most visitors to Bosnia…go to Sarajevo of course…..and Mostar of the famous bridge….and probably then move on. But Travnik is certainly one for the notebook.

Funnily enough…here was the first place we sort of struggled to find a beer! Not like Morocco last year…but most places were indeed alcohol free. It was indeed odd to be drinking beer on the street…with but two metres away a fully burkah’d waitress serving……only tea of course!

And part of the reason? This fabulous mosque! An important one in Bosnia. And really the centrepiece of the old town.

Absolutely gorgeous.

The Šarena Mosque…unusually colourful and decorated…for a mosque.

Just lovely….outside…

….and in. 

With a timely reminder in its garden. One wonders…really…how harmoniously the three communities live together with this atrocity really so recent!

So we spent beer time here on the square ….before retiring to an alcohol-free Palestinian restaurant just around the corner! Fantastic food!

This guy and his many wives passed us by. Had to laugh….”Pull and Bear” on this tee-shirt. Pull the women…and bear lots of children maybe? Or an unlikely reference to Hong Kong’s famous pub…the Bull and Bear!

Lovely place…Travnik!

PS…I really have no idea how many people read this blog! Three for sure! But otherwise…I never know unless folk make a comment! All of which are gratefully received…by the way!! So it was a bit surprising to receive three comments…about a missing photograph…from Sarajevo….

…so here is a teaser…in response!