83. Llavorsi to Canolich (Andorra)

Today was simply an epic day!!

During these rides….there are some ‘planned’ days…which generate significant levels of anxiety…simply because you can find no information about the proposed route! Other than on Google Maps…which we know to be unreliable! Nothing on Kamoot. Nothing to show that anyone has actually managed to take that google-route! Last year…our ride up into the mountains of Albania en route to Kosovo…was one such day. Today’s ride was another!! We were headed for the Col de Gallina…known as the toughest climb in Andorra! But we were approaching it from the opposite direction to the famous ascent!

So…not a great sleep!

But the day started well…sunshine…and a great road!

Up….and up….

…and up….

…on tarmac for 11 kms!

Spectacular views…beautiful villages….

And then…this! 

We misread the sign initially…but then noted the motorcycle helmet on the cyclist!!

In fact…unusually…the sign confirmed that no motors are allowed…to preserve the silence in the National Park! So bicycles are ok!

Up and up some more…on a beautifully graded track. No issues!

A long run along the 2,000m contour…on a muddy track..thankfully mostly dry!

Lots of cows….

Shennae making a quick dash past this one!

…and Pyrenean horses….

….and plenty of fords!

After negotiating this one…I found a bridge 20m upstream!!

Deep in the mountain valleys…..we then lost all communications! No maps! Alas! With plenty of tracks to choose from! 

And here….we went wrong! Thinking the track to the left served the houses….we followed ‘main track’ to the right. 

It was the wrong decision. And the track was wet and muddy…and very slippery….and downhill!!

Thankfully after only about two kilometres…we found a walking sign….pointing us in the opposite direction! Another ten kms or so on this track…and we very possibly would not have had enough battery to escape!! We did feel a bit vulnerable! Still no map!

To add to the stress…my motor suddenly started making awful grinding noises…and we still had around 30kms and lots of climbing to go!!

The sun has disappeared. Dark clouds threatened.

And yes…of course….it then started raining!!!

Gladly we were past the mud by now…and the track was stony, providing plenty of grip!

Over another ridge…and there was our ‘destination’, the small village of Civis! And a visible comms tower…so maps were back! We were on the right track!!

A rocky cruise down to the village….and some time spent sheltering from the rain!

Phew! Real relief! Honestly…not sure what we would have done had we run out of battery…or if my motor had given up! But all is well that ends well!

Only a steep 5km climb from here…to Col de Gallina! 

Quite a rough track…but very manageable! 

300m of polished tarmac at the top….and we made it!

To join all the famed La Vuelta riders who have been here before us!!

And the sun came out!! 

Delightful!

And….from here…it was all downhill…

….spectacular views of the main valley of Andorra…

…to our gorgeous accommodation at Canolich!

This is my third visit! Such a unique place…with delightful Argentinian-born hostess, married to the guy whose family have had this place for ever!

We were truly filthy…so great shower….ready for a beer….and then….it rained!!

But what a rainbow!

I do not think I have ever seen a rainbow sink so far below me! Really quite strange…

….but very beautiful!

And here they cook everything on an open fire in the bar…! Smells SO good….and tastes equally good! 

Great night…and a great end to a…challenging!…day!